All of the common types of
connectors are fairly simple to install. With just weeks worth of installer practice one can expect losses no higherthan 2% to 5%, depending on the cleanliness of the area in which the connections are made.
Before fiber connectors are installed, a breakout kit may need to be used. This procedure will be required on 250-, 500-, and 900-micron tight-buffer cables. The bare fibers are inserted into
those buffer tubes to provide handling protection and strength when mounted onto connectors.
Installing a fiber connector onto a pigtail or un-buffered fiber can be done in several ways. The
three most common are epoxy glue with oven-cure, then polish; Hot Melt pre-glue, then polish; and cleave and crimp, no polish.
The epoxy-glue
method is the oldest and is still widely used today. This process involves filling the connector with a mixed two-party epoxy, then inserting the prepared and cleaned fiber into the connector. After curing the epoxy in an oven for the specified period of time (usually 5 to 20 minutes), the fiber is scribed and cleaved nearly flush with the end of the connector. Finally, it's polished with a succession of finer and finer lapping papers (typically ranging from 3-micron grit down to 0.3-micron grit).
With Hot Melt
method (a trademark of 3M Co.), the connector comes preloaded with glue and must be placed into an oven to soften the glue. Clean, prepared fiber is then inserted into the connector, then left to cool. After cooling, the fiber is scribed and polished in the same process as used in the epoxy method.
Cleave and crimp
connectors do not require a polish procedure since these connectors already have a polished ferrule tip. Thus, installation simply involves inserting a properly cleaved fiber to butt against the connector's internal fiber "stub." The fiber connector is then crimped to hold the fiber in place.